Ukhimath - The Temple of Tungnath

Tungnath By Chance/Ukhimathanother night halt place. We got accommodation at
If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi forAnushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200
forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I wouldwhich was quite a clean new room with new bedding.
want to be settled down for my new abode.Later, that evening we went for the outing, met
I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, andsome children from some village nearby, clicked pics
before I could do more fact-finding we had ourand had good time. Gagan looked over joyous. We
bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talkreturned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN
that I had with Gagan a day before wherein Iand from there retuned back to our room which was
mentioned to him the place and talked about asome 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously
vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gavesignaling of bad weather to start anytime now.
his unsure 'Yes' with a 'But'! I knew Gagan since myThe room had no light despite the connection. Some
graduation days. He has always been around sincefault was being located. As we lay down I discussed
then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabricwith Gagan about option of visiting
expert - had just resigned and this was theMadhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at
opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked
Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me thethe door. It was Tiwari's nephew asking us to join
unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times,for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling
he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m.only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in
I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he camesome early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding.
and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk,
We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I hadwhich I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While
ensured the eatables for us and after we chattedsipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit
for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, weTungnath.
stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus.I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath
We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after coveringat the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was
some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. Icarrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion
asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehrithat for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage
bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded ato get any vehicle and said moreover it would be
Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated awayrisky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I
and we started walking fast to reach the venue.completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to
Gagan cursed me for that!Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was
At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and aninterested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the
hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave forproblem for me. When we entered back our room,
Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here.Gagan talked to his family and came to know about
We took the side seat for two, Gagan at thehis interview schedule right after the 2 days. He
window side. Bus started and we smiled to eachwanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having
other for the trip to Hills has started.told from hi about this dream as a major life goal. We
At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag whichobserved silence. He suddenly said 'I'll be going back
was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferredfor this interview' though he didn't wanted to miss
taking a look around. We discussed further about histhe trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad
first experience with hills. We moved again and bynight after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm
11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and sostarted.
was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap roomIt rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver
for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay)I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was
but with all windows open it was a well lit and nicestill dark outside. I thought to open up the door for
ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.some fresh air and to observe the things around. I
We spent our time by Alaknanda's side in warm sumcame out and saw the clouds all over and over them
and glacier water in which we put our feet and thenthe snow clad mountains. I shouted 'Gagan'!
yell 'Chill hai yaar'! We were more than happy. NoTiwari was up too and made me some tea. We
family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share,sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains.
just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and ourTiwari and the rain in the background broke the
offbeat communication to content ourselves.silence. He said 'Go see Tungnath and you'll not be
Next I realized when we got back to our room, thatdisappointed'. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in
I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, atthe scene more than both of us. We got ready and
home only. So we spent the evening searching forby 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan
the card at every nook and corner helplessly but noplanned to complete the trip and sacrificed his
success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm.interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of
Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go backwhy not try calling the college and let them know
to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms backthat you are out so if possibly the interview could be
from the place we were at. Going back was there-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and
chance we were about to take because we weresucceeded. We were more than celebrating.
not certain whether we will get the Card there orTiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta,
not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar - bigger andsome 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep
better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited fordiscussing about the weather, temple and problems
the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave.we could face if we do not plan return soon. At
Luck was with us, though we got the card for aChopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain,
higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomachwe prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started
and prepared to resume our journey. We reachedfinding our way on the slippery surface amidst the
Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating forvast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill
bus that goes to Ukhimath.to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which
We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling forbelieved to have received the arms of Shiva.
some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and badThe place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and
patches on road appeared all over. The route was alla serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We
along the river Mandakini through Tilwara andreached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and
Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one roadstarted to click the pictures from various places
goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.surveying things. The weather by now was getting
Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwarreally bad and clouds all over the temple and we
so we were told that the same bus that leaves atplanned comeback. The temple made of huge stones
4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyanawas said to be some 5,000 years old, built by
some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand.Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The
Some 2 hours. We had 'Dal Chawal' which Gagantemple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the
never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After itforms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between
was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus andwas - Tungnath form.
got the unexpected reply. The bus actuallyI remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea
developed some as we were told and would not goand took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a
today further.kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who
So we returned down the market to GMVN our firstgathered all around him. It was the good gesture.
choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and RawatMaybe some Karma scores were to be settled from
Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the roomthe past lives. He looked eased soon after.
but tariff was quite high Rs. 600 for room. So weAnd, I prayed to Bhagwan (God) Tungnath, make us
planned to move after a cup of tea to search forcome for once more... soon!